How to Get the Most Money for Your Scrap Metal

Quick answer: To get the most money for your scrap metal, sort it by type, separate copper, brass and aluminum from steel, remove plastic, rubber and iron attachments, and keep your load clean and dry. Clean, sorted metal is paid at a higher grade than mixed or dirty metal, so a few minutes of prep at home can make a real difference at the scale.

At John's Famous Auto Parts & Metals, our family has been weighing scrap in Florida since 1974. Over the years, we have watched thousands of customers pull onto our scales. Some leave with a lot more money than others, even when they bring in about the same amount of metal. The difference almost always comes down to how they prepared. This guide walks you through the simple steps that help you get paid what your metal is really worth.

Why scrap prep matters so much

Scrap yards do not pay one flat price for "metal." Each type of metal has its own price, and each type can also have several grades. A clean grade is worth more because it can go straight to a mill or smelter. A dirty grade needs more work, so it pays less.

When different metals are mixed together, the yard usually has to price the whole pile at the lowest grade in it. That means a bucket of copper with steel screws and plastic stuck to it may be paid like a much cheaper metal. Sorting fixes that problem.

Step 1: Use the magnet test

The easiest tool in scrap recycling is a simple magnet. Keep one in your truck, garage or toolbox.

• If the magnet sticks, the metal is ferrous. That means it contains iron. Steel and cast iron are ferrous metals. Think appliances, car frames, steel shelving, lawn mower decks and rebar.
• If the magnet does not stick, the metal is likely non-ferrous. Copper, brass, aluminum, stainless steel (most kinds) and lead are non-ferrous. These metals usually pay much more per pound.

Put ferrous and non-ferrous metal in separate piles from the start. This one habit can raise your payout more than anything else. Learn more on our non-ferrous metals and ferrous metals pages.

Step 2: Separate your non-ferrous metals by type

Once your non-ferrous pile is ready, split it up even more. Use buckets, bins or sturdy boxes for each kind:

• Copper: pipe, tubing, wire and copper fittings. Bright, shiny copper with no solder or paint is usually the best grade.
• Brass: plumbing valves, faucets, keys, door hardware and shell casings. Brass looks yellow-gold and is heavy for its size.
• Aluminum: cans, siding, gutters, lawn chairs, window frames, wheels (rims) and boat parts. Keep cans separate from heavier aluminum pieces.
• Stainless steel: sinks, restaurant equipment and some appliance parts. A magnet may stick a little to some stainless, so ask us if you are unsure.
• Insulated wire: extension cords, house wire and electrical cable. Keep it in its own bin.

Step 3: Clean off attachments

"Clean" metal means metal with nothing else attached. Here are the most common attachments that lower your price:

• Steel screws, bolts and brackets on aluminum or copper
• Plastic handles, rubber hoses and wood pieces
• Insulation on copper wire
• Solder, paint or heavy dirt on copper pipe
• Iron fittings on brass valves

Use basic tools such as a screwdriver, wrench, pliers and tin snips. Pulling a few screws off an aluminum frame can move it from a lower grade into a cleaner grade. Always work slowly and wear gloves, since cut metal edges are sharp.

Step 4: Decide whether to strip wire

Copper wire is a popular item, and many people ask if they should strip it. The honest answer is: it depends on the wire. Thick wire with a lot of copper inside can be worth stripping because bare copper pays much more than insulated wire. Thin wire, like phone cords or small electronics cables, often takes too long to strip for the extra money.

A good rule: if you can strip it fast with a wire stripper and the copper inside is thick, it may be worth it. If not, bring it in as insulated wire and keep it sorted. Never burn wire to remove insulation. Burning is dangerous, creates toxic smoke and damages the copper.

Step 5: Bring the right high-value items

Some items are worth more than people expect. Before you throw something away, think about whether it belongs on your scrap pile:

• Car batteries: lead-acid batteries have real value. Keep them upright and do not drain them. See our car battery recycling guide.
• A/C units and condensers: they contain copper and aluminum. Units must be freon-free before we can accept them. See scrap A/C units.
• Aluminum wheels: clean rims with tires and weights removed are worth more.
• Radiators: copper-brass and aluminum radiators both have value. Remove steel brackets if you can.
• Old appliances: washers, dryers, water heaters and stoves add up by weight. See scrap appliances.
• Junk cars: a whole vehicle can be sold for cash. See sell your junk car.

Step 6: Keep metal dry and free of trash

Water, dirt and trash add weight that is not metal. The yard has to account for that, so it may lower your price or ask you to clean the load. Store your scrap under a tarp or in a shed. Empty out cans, buckets and containers. Drain fluids from items like lawn mowers before you bring them in. A clean, dry load is faster to weigh and easier to grade.

Step 7: Save up for bigger trips

Every trip costs you gas and time. Instead of driving to the yard with a few pounds at a time, save your scrap until you have a fuller load. Keep your sorted bins in one spot so they are ready to go. When you do make the trip, you will spend less on fuel and get a bigger payout in one visit.

Scrap prices move up and down with the market. We do not post prices online because they change, so the best way to know today's price is to bring your sorted metal to the scale.

Step 8: Bring what you need to get paid

Florida law requires scrap yards to record who is selling metal. Bring a valid government-issued photo ID every time. We also take a thumbprint and signature. Most sellers are paid in cash. When the amount is over the state cash limit, we pay by company check. Read our guide on how to make your scrap yard visit easy for the full checklist.

Your scrap prep checklist

1. Test every piece with a magnet.
2. Split ferrous and non-ferrous metal.
3. Sort copper, brass, aluminum, stainless and wire into separate bins.
4. Remove screws, plastic, rubber and wood.
5. Strip thick copper wire only if it is worth your time.
6. Keep metal clean, dry and free of trash.
7. Save up for a fuller load.
8. Bring your photo ID.

Which John's yard should you visit?

We have scrap yards in Bunnell, Holly Hill and Palatka. Not every yard takes every item, so use our Yard Finder to ask which location is best for your load. You can also see addresses, hours and directions on our locations page. All scrap yards are open Monday through Friday, 8:00 AM to 4:30 PM.

Preparing your scrap takes a little effort, but it pays off. Sort it, clean it, and bring it in. Our team will weigh it fairly and pay you on the spot.